When driving the car around the block cycling the power steering fluid, it was pretty evident that it was mis-aligned. The left wheel wanted to push the front end to the right and the right to the left. Kinda got sketchy when one wheel had less traction than the other
I needed to get the alignment close enough to drive around.
First, I got both wheels set from center as even as I could. I measured off the inner end of the outer tie rod to the start of the inner tie rod threads.
Painted a line around the wheel, Just holding the can in one spot while a helper spun the wheel.
Wait till the paint dried, the scribed a line in the white paint. This gives a nice fine line to measure off of. Same deal, hold the sharp point in one spot while someone spins the wheel
Next measure the front and rear. Need to make sure you measure at the same height on the wheel, So I measured off jackstands.
Adjust as needed, then measure both the exposed thread and also wheel front and back again. Repeat
When I was done, the rear of the tire measured 1/8" wider in the back then the front. I admit I haven't done the math to figure out what this is in degrees yet.
Drives straight though. Will do a proper alignment after I replace the rear control arm and subframe bushings.
Next my instrument cluster had some burnt out bulbs and my wheel was 80 or so degrees off from straight so.. Must remove the steering wheel, just one nut, no big deal.
A friend of mine gave me this cool little screwdriver which is just tits for getting at the instrument cluster surround screws.
Put a meter on all the bulbs and replaced the burnt out ones. Standard 1/4 twist stuff here
Reassemble, this time with the steering wheel straight. One of the reasons I chose the head unit I did is because you can set the hue of the buttons and display. Matching dash lights; OEM look FTW.
Next up, the OBC button lights. (Below the temperature display the buttons are supposed to be backlit as well)